Loan/Lease Gap Coverage
Pays the difference between your auto insurance settlement (vehicle's actual cash value) and your remaining loan or lease balance after a covered total loss. The most common reason gap insurance exists.
If you total a financed or leased car, your auto policy pays only what the car is worth — not what you owe. Gap insurance covers the difference, often saving you thousands. And buying it from us is typically 70–90% cheaper than the dealer.
Pays the difference between your auto insurance settlement (vehicle's actual cash value) and your remaining loan or lease balance after a covered total loss. The most common reason gap insurance exists.
Some gap-style endorsements pay to replace your totaled vehicle with a brand-new equivalent for the first 1–3 years of ownership — going beyond just paying off the loan.
Lease residuals are calculated assuming you keep the vehicle for the full term. A total loss mid-lease typically leaves you owing thousands — gap coverage built specifically for leases closes that exposure.
Some gap policies also reimburse your auto insurance deductible after a covered total loss — eliminating the out-of-pocket sting on top of losing the car.
If you rolled negative equity from a previous vehicle into your current loan, your "gap" is even larger. Some carriers offer expanded gap coverage that includes rolled-over negative equity up to a stated limit.
If you pay off your loan early or trade in the vehicle, your gap policy is no longer needed — and you're typically owed a pro-rated refund. We help you collect refunds dealers and lenders often "forget" to issue.
Dealer gap insurance is typically rolled into your loan at $500–$1,200 in financed cost. Insurance-carrier gap (added to your auto policy) typically runs $20–$60 per year. Same coverage, fraction of the cost.
When you buy gap from your auto insurer, you pay it as a small premium add-on. When you buy it from the dealer, it's rolled into your loan — meaning you pay interest on it for the full loan term, doubling or tripling the real cost.
If you pay off your loan early, sell the vehicle, or refinance, you're owed a pro-rated gap refund. We track this for our clients and help you actually collect — many dealer gap policies require you to request the refund yourself, and most people never do.
Gap is only valuable for the first 1–4 years of a typical loan, until your equity catches up. We help you decide when to add gap, when to drop it, and how much you actually need based on your loan terms and depreciation curve.
Gap insurance pays the difference between what your auto insurance settles for after a total loss (the vehicle's actual cash value) and what you still owe on the loan or lease. Example: you owe $30,000, the car is totaled and worth $24,000, your insurer pays $24,000, gap insurance pays the remaining $6,000 to your lender. Without gap, you'd owe that $6,000 out of pocket on a car you no longer own.
You probably need it if any of these are true: you put down less than 20% on a new vehicle; your loan term is 60+ months; you're leasing; you rolled negative equity from a previous loan into your current one; or you bought a vehicle that depreciates faster than average (luxury, electric, certain brands). You probably don't need it if your loan balance is already less than the vehicle's value.
Almost always your insurance company. Dealer gap is typically $500–$1,200 financed into your loan at interest, while insurance-carrier gap is typically $20–$60 per year added to your auto premium. The savings over the life of a typical 60-month loan are usually $400–$1,000 — same coverage, dramatically lower cost.
Until your loan balance is less than the vehicle's actual cash value — typically 2–4 years into a standard loan. Once you have positive equity, gap insurance no longer provides value because your auto insurance settlement would already cover the loan payoff. We review this with clients annually.
Yes, if you bought it from the dealer or your insurer, you can cancel anytime and receive a pro-rated refund of unearned premium. For dealer gap, you typically have to request the refund in writing from the lender — many people don't realize they're owed money. For insurance-carrier gap, refunds are automatic when you cancel or when the vehicle is totaled.
The underlying policy your gap coverage sits on top of — we can bundle them into a single comprehensive auto package.
Classic cars, exotics, and collectibles need different coverage — agreed-value policies that replace gap with proper valuation.
If your vehicle is used for business, commercial auto + gap is the right structure — different from personal auto coverage.